LEGO 71828 Lloyds Pull-Back Race Car  

LEGO Audio & Braille Building Instructions for the LEGO Ninjago set "Lloyds Pull-Back Race Car".

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Speed into action with Lloyd in his amazing Pull-Back Race Car! Armed with 2 golden katana swords, Lloyd is ready for an epic battle against the demon Dragonian Warrior who wants to seize control of the merged NINJAGO world. For a turbo boost, hop into the cockpit, pull back the car and watch it zoom forward at an incredible pace! Can you help Lloyd stop the feral Dragonian?

The box cover shows a high-speed action scene in the middle of a dusty dirt road. Lloyd’s Pull-Back Race Car is racing forward at full speed, with motion lines and flying dust all around its large black wheels. The car is painted in different shades of green which are Lloyd's signature colors, and it looks like a proper Race Car: it is long and pointed at the front with a low front bumper with sharp jagged blades in gold as well as golden wing-like spoilers at the back. Lloyd is seated in the open cockpit, wearing his green ninja suit, focused and ready for battle. Attached to the front hood are two golden katana swords, glinting as the vehicle speeds ahead. There are 2 green lightning blades attached to the underbody just behind the front wheels. This vehicle sure is armed to the teeth! Above and behind the car, a red-armored enemy leaps through the air with a large silver sword raised overhead. This is the Dragonian Warrior, with horned armor and a fierce expression, aiming to strike as the chase heats up. In the bottom right corner, both characters are displayed in small portraits: Lloyd in his green mask and the Dragonian Warrior in red with glowing eyes. Electrified cracks that look like swirls of dark energy are running across the entire box cover, adding extra drama. Near the bottom left, there is a bold “PULL BACK” icon to highlight the car’s special feature: pull it back and let go to watch it race forward on its own. But now, let's start building!

Open the box. It contains visual building instructions, 2 numbered bags, 1 sticker sheet and 5 loose pieces: 1 pull-back motor 6x3x5, 2 thick rubber tires with low profile and 2 thin rubber tires with low profile. We will refer to the bag numbers to guide you through the building process. Please ask a sighted person to help you identify the correct bags!

The sticker sheet has 3 stickers. Two of them are identical, so if you would like to find and attach the stickers yourself, these are your options: You can try to feel the outlines of the stickers and search for the 2 stickers that are directly next to each other. These are the identical stickers for the side panels of the car, the other sticker that is a bit more isolated is the front hood sticker. Another option is to ask a sighted person to orientate the sticker sheet in front of you such that the bold black line is at the top edge. We will refer to both the shape and the location of the sticker on the sticker sheet during the building process. However, of course you can also decide to skip the stickers in the building process for now or ask a sighted person to help you attach them if you like.

Carefully open bag number 1 and any small sub-bags in it. This bag contains all bricks and pieces for the Lloyd Minifigure, the vehicle underbody with pull-back mechanism, driver's cabin and side panels.

If you like, you can ask a sighted person to help you sort the pieces by color before you start building. We recommend using trays or bowls. This can make finding the correct pieces easier! However, if you would like to build without brick colors entirely, you can also ignore them or turn them off. There are different ways to sort and organize the bricks and your building process. It is up to you!

First, we will build the Lloyd Minifigure.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 mossy green pair of legs,

and 1 mossy green and yellowish green upper part of the body.

Put the upper body on the legs. Make sure that the hands and toes are pointing in the same direction.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 mossy green and bright green ninja race helmet,

and 1 bright yellow Minifigure head.

Put the head on the body.

The head piece has 2 face prints: one side shows Lloyd with a calm but serious expression, bright green eyes, and dark reddish-brown eyebrows. The other side features his action face with a black and green ninja mask around the eyes and a fierce expression ready for battle.

Put the helmet on the head.

The Lloyd Minifigure is finished! Well done! Lloyd wears his powerful Storm Suit—a striking dark green ninja outfit with golden armor and bright green highlights. His helmet is a sleek green hood with a cloth knot tied at the back, and his matching face mask leaves only his sharp yellow eyes visible, full of focus and determination. The front of his suit is covered in intricate dragon-scale armor with golden details. The cross-tied ninja suit is held together with a lime green belt and reveals a golden chest plate. His legs are printed with green and gold plating that looks fast and battle-ready. On the back, the Storm Suit features more armor patterns and a bold green “S” symbol, marking him as the storm-charged ninja he is.

Next, we will build the vehicle underbody with pull-back mechanism.

Collect the following 3 pieces:

1 medium stone grey frame brick 4x4 with technic holes,

and 2 dark stone grey grille tiles 1x2.

Put the frame brick 4x4 on the table. Make sure its knobs form straight rows and columns in front of you.

Put 1 grille tile 1x2 vertically on the rightmost column, starting from the front.

Repeat symmetrically on the left.

Find 2 black connector pegs 2m with middle ring. (2m means that this piece is about 2 knobs long.)

Insert 1 from the front into the rightmost hole at the front side surface, 1/2 sticking out towards the front.

Repeat symmetrically on the leftmost front hole, 1/2 protruding to the front.

Find 1 black frame brick 4x6.

Turn the structure you have built so far so that the 2 connector pegs are pointing to the right.

Turn the new frame brick 4x6 horizontally and push its left side holes on the 2 connector pegs to connect the 2 frame bricks.

Find another 2 black connector pegs 2m with middle ring.

Insert one into the backmost side hole on the left side surface, 1/2 protruding to the left.

Insert the other one into the frontmost side hole on the left side, 1/2 protruding to the left.

Next, we will make an underbody sub-part.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 black technic brick 1x2 with 2 technic levers 1m on long side,

and 1 bright blue connector peg 2m with cross axle pin.

Put the technic brick 1x2 on the table so that its 2 side levers are pointing to the left.

Carefully insert the cross axle pin from the back into the back cross hole of the previous piece, but make sure that you only insert the tip. It should not protrude beyond the inner surface of the back lever as we will mount something between the 2 levers later.

To mount this sub-part, push the round hole of the brick portion from the left on the back connector peg that is sticking out towards the left on the main structure.

Next up, we assemble make a second underbody sub-part.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

another black technic brick 1x2 with 2 technic levers 1m on long side,

and another bright blue connector peg 2m with cross axle pin.

Put the technic brick 1x2 on the table so that the technic levers are pointing to the left.

Carefully insert the tip of the cross axle pin from the front into the front cross hole of the previous piece, but do not push it in beyond the inner surface of the lever.

Mount the sub-part in front of the first sub-part by pushing the round hole of the brick portion on the front connector on the main structure's left side.

Next, we will build the pull-back mechanism.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 bright blue connector peg 3m with asymmetric ring stopper,

and 1 dark stone grey pull-back motor 6x3x5.

Position the motor horizontally in front of you. Make sure the 2 slanted beams are towards the right. This also means that the edge with the 5 technic holes should be at the bottom.

Insert the longer end of the connector from the front in the leftmost bottom hole of the motor, symmetrically protruding to the front and back.

Find 1 white technic lever 5m. (This piece is a thin bar-shaped technic element with 3 round holes, 2 cross holes and rounded sides.)

Hold it horizontally in front of you, holes facing you. Put the second hole from the left (this is the leftmost of the 3 round holes) on the connector peg sticking out towards the front.

If done correctly, 1/5 of the lever will stick out towards the left, and a part of the connector peg will still be sticking out towards the front.

Find another white technic lever 5m.

Mount it in the exact same orientation as the previous piece on the same connector.

Find 1 bright yellow cross axle 3m.

Insert it from the front into the leftmost holes of the 2 technic levers and push it all the way in until its front end is flush with the front surface of the levers. This means the cross axle will run through one of the motor holes and protrude to the back.

Find 2 black connector pegs 2m with middle ring.

Put 1 from the front into the round hole to the left of the previous piece, 1/2 sticking out towards the front.

Insert the other one into the hole to the left of the previous piece, 1/2 sticking out towards the front.

Find 1 medium stone grey L-shaped technic beam 3m x 5m.

Hold it so that the holes are facing you. The long beam should be at the bottom and pointing to the left, and the short beam should be on the right edge pointing to the top.

Mount its 2 leftmost knobs on the 2 connector pegs sticking out towards the front (these are the 2 previous pieces).

Find 1 beige connector peg with ring 1½ m.

Insert its longer end from the front into the previous piece's bottom beam, using its first empty hole from the left. This means it will be mounted directly to the right of the 2 connector pegs we have used for mounting in the previous step.

Find 1 reddish brown U-shaped bracket 3m with 2 connectors and top ring.

Insert its connectors from the front into the 2 outer holes of the shorter beam of the L-shaped beam. This means it will be mounted upright vertically, its ring facing you.

Find another white technic lever 5m.

Turn the pull-back mechanism structure around so that the previous piece is towards the back.

Mirroring the technic levers on the back side, mount this piece horizontally on the cross axle and connector peg sticking out towards the front. Use its leftmost cross hole for the cross axle, and the rightmost round hole for the connector peg. 1 cross hole is protruding to the right.

Find another white technic lever 5m.

Mount it horizontally on the previous piece, using the same holes and mounting points.

Find another 2 black connector pegs 2m with middle ring.

Insert them into the 2 empty round holes of the 2 previous pieces, 1/2 sticking out towards the front.

Find another medium stone grey L-shaped technic beam 3m x 5m.

Hold it so that the short beam is on the left edge and pointing up, and the long beam is at the bottom edge and pointing to the right.

Mount its 2 leftmost holes on the 2 previous pieces.

Find another beige connector peg with ring 1½m.

Insert it from the front into the previous piece using the first empty hole from the right.

Find another reddish brown U-shaped bracket 3m with 2 connectors and top ring.

Hold it upright vertically, its ring pointing towards you, and insert its 2 connectors into the short beam of the L-shaped technic beam.

The pull-back mechanism is finished! Well done! Before you mount it, fetch the main structure and make sure it is oriented horizontally but its 2 sub-parts with the carefully placed cross axle pins are on the right edge of the structure now.

Turn the pull-back mechanism so that the technic lever ends with the empty cross holes are pointing to the left. Insert those cross hole ends into the 2 sub-parts on the main structure's right edge and start pushing in the 2 loosely placed cross axle pins to connect the 2 structures with each other. You might have to wiggle the structure a bit so the axles can slide in.

Find 2 bright blue connector pegs 3m with asymmetric ring stopper.

Insert the short end of 1 from the left into the backmost side hole on the left side surface, 2/3 protruding to the left.

Repeat symmetrically on the front hole on the left side surface.

Find 1 black technic brick 1x6. (This brick has 5 side holes.)

Turn it vertically and push it centered on the protruding parts of the previous pieces. Make sure to use the second hole from the front and from the back so that the brick is protruding symmetrically to the front and back when mounted.

Find 1 black technic brick 1x12.

Mount it vertically centered on the same 2 connectors using the fifth hole from the front and from the back. Again, make sure that the brick protrudes symmetrically to the front and back.

Find 2 black corner tiles 1x2 - 1x2 with cut-off corner.

Put 1 on the corner that is formed between the back end of the shorter technic brick 1x6 and the longer technic brick 1x12, aligning the inner corner of the tile with the brick edges.

Repeat symmetrically at the front.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 yellowish green wedge plate 2x3 with cut to the right, (To identify the correct one, put the wedge plate vertically in front of you, narrow end pointing towards you. Now, the angled side should be on the right, running from the front towards the back. If this does not add up, you have the other wedge plate which we will also need.)

and 1 yellowish green wedge plate 2x3 with cut to the left. (This is the mirrored version of the first wedge plate.)

Turn the wedge plate with cut to the right horizontally so that the narrow end is pointing to the left and the sloped edge is at the front.

Identify the 2 middle knobs on the leftmost column of the current build, or in other words, the 2 middle knobs of the brick 1x12. Mount the wedge plate so that its left end is sitting on the front knob of those 2 center knobs.

Put the wedge plate with cut to the left horizontally behind the previous piece, narrow end to the left, sloped edge towards the back.

Find 2 beige connector pegs with ring 1½m.

Identify the frame brick 4x6 that is mounted horizontally to the left of the technic brick 1x6. Insert the long end of 1 connector peg from the front into the rightmost front side hole of that brick.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Find 2 dark green technic levers 9m with 3 holes.

Hold 1 horizontally, holes facing you, and mount its leftmost hole on the previous piece and the rightmost hole on the corresponding connector peg sticking out towards the back in the right half of the structure. Note that there is another connector peg sticking out towards the back at the far right edge of the back side surface, but this is for the upcoming step.

If done correctly, a short bit of that connector peg on the right will still be sticking out. Keep it in mind for the upcoming step.

Repeat symmetrically at the front with the other technic lever.

Find another 2 dark green technic beams 9m with 3 holes.

Hold 1 horizontally and put its middle hole on the connector peg that was used in the previous mounting step, and its rightmost hole on the connector peg sticking out on the far right side of the front side surface.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Find 2 dark stone grey connector pegs 3m with cross axle end.

Insert the connector peg portion from the front into the previous piece's leftmost hole, cross axle portion sticking out to the front.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Find 2 warm gold nose cones 1x1.

Flip it upright so its narrow end is pointing to the back, and put its wider end on the cross axle portion of the previous piece. If done correctly, the nose cone is pointing to the back.

Repeat symmetrically at the front.

Find 1 yellowish orange plate 2x8.

Put it horizontally on the 2 middle rows of the whole build to the left of the rounded technic lever ends of the pull-back mechanism that were used for connecting the underbody with the pull-back motor.

Find 2 dark stone grey stepped plates 2x2 with 2 side knobs.

Put 1 stepped plate directly to the right of the horizontally mounted grille tile in the middle of the front row, side knobs to the front. This means it will sit on the front row and the smooth area in front of it.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Find another 2 dark stone grey stepped plates 2x2 with 2 side knobs.

Put 1 to the right of the previous piece, side knobs to the back.

Repeat symmetrically at the front.

Next, we will build the rear cabin structure.

Collect the following 3 pieces:

1 beige brick 1x4 with inside arch,

and 2 medium stone grey rounded plates 1x2.

Put the brick 1x4 horizontally on the table.

Put 1 rounded plate 1x2 horizontally on the left half of the brick and the other horizontally on the right half.

Find 1 black plate 1x2 with side rail.

Put it horizontally centered on top, side rail to the back. This means it will sit on the inner knobs of the 2 previous pieces.

Turn the rear cabin structure vertically, side rail to the right, and mount it centered directly to the left of the pull-back motor. This means it will hover above the technic lever portion of the underbody that connects the pull-back mechanism with the rest of the vehicle underbody.

Find 1 dark stone grey frame plate 4x4 with middle hole.

Put it centered to the left of the previous piece.

Collect the following 3 pieces:

2 dark green bricks 1x2 with downward half arch,

and 1 dark stone grey brick 2x2.

Put 1 brick with downward arch horizontally on the previous piece's front row, starting from its left edge, arch to the right.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Put the brick 2x2 centered to the left of the frame plate 4x4.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 yellowish orange smooth roof tile 1x2x⅔,

and 1 black and medium stone grey small steering wheel with plate 1x2.

Put the small steering wheel vertically to the right of the previous piece, steering wheel to the right.

Put the smooth roof tile vertically centered to the left of the rear cabin structure, slope to the left. This means it sits on the right column of the frame plate.

Find 2 dark stone grey bricks 1x4 with 4 side knobs.

Put 1 horizontally on the frontmost row on top of the 2 stepped bricks, side knobs to the front.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Find 2 mossy green low bricks 1x3 with downward half-arch.

Put 1 vertically on the front half of the rear cabin structure, arch to the front. This means it will sit on the front half of the column that is located directly to the left of the pull-back motor.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Find 1 warm gold curve tile 1x2 with fin.

Put it vertically on the knobs of the 2 previous pieces, fin to the right.

Find 2 dark stone grey bricks 1x1 with side cross hole.

Put them on the column to the left of the brick 2x2 that is mounted in the middle of the structure. Make sure that both cross holes are running from front to back. We have to insert cross axles there later.

Find 2 black T-shaped technic beams with plate 1x2.

Put 1 horizontally on the front row of the larger frame brick directly to the right of the wedge plate that is mounted at the left edge.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Now, we will make a small sub-part.

Find 2 medium stone grey rounded plates 1x2.

Stack them vertically on top of each other.

Find 1 dark stone grey top angle plate 1x2 - 1x4 with 4 side knobs.

Put the plate 1x2 vertically on top of the stacked rounded plates, plate with 4 side knobs overhanging to the left.

Mount this sub-part in its building orientation on the column between the 2 previous pieces and the 2 bricks 1x1 with cross hole.

Next, we will make another small sub-part.

Collect the following 3 pieces:

1 dark green plate 2x3,

and 2 black plates 1x2 with side bottom tube.

Put the plate 2x3 horizontally on the table. Make sure its knobs form straight rows and columns in front of you.

Put 1 plate with tube horizontally on the back row on its leftmost knob, 1/2 with tube overhanging to the left.

Put the other plate 1x2 horizontally in front of the previous piece, 1/2 with tube overhanging to the left.

Find 1 black plate 2x2.

Put it to the right of the 2 previous pieces.

Mount this small sub-part horizontally centered on the leftmost edge, 1 column with tubes protruding to the left.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 yellowish green wedge plate 2x3 with cut to the right,

and 1 yellowish green wedge plate 2x3 with cut to the left.

Put the wedge plate 2x3 with cut to the right horizontally on the front row of the small sub-part, narrow end to the left, angled edge to the front, mirroring the identical plate underneath. This means that you have to leave the leftmost knob of the sub-part empty.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Find 1 transparent light blue plate 1x2.

Put it vertically to the left of the 2 wedge plates.

Find 1 dark green plate 2x8.

Put it horizontally on the 2 middle rows directly to the left of the steering wheel.

Find 2 reddish brown U-shaped brackets 3m with 2 connectors and top ring.

Hold 1 upright vertically, top ring facing you and the 2 connectors pointing to the back. Insert them into the T-shaped technic beam at the front edge that sits to the right of the wedge plates.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Collect the following 4 pieces:

2 mossy green ingots 1x2,

1 mossy green curve tile 1x2 with 45° cut towards the right, (To identify the curve tile with cut to the right, turn the piece vertically so that the pointy end is towards you. Now, the sloped side should be on the right. If not, it's the other curve tile with cut which we will also need in this step.)

and 1 mossy green curve tile 1x2 with 45° cut towards the left. (This is the mirrored version of the first curve tile with cut.)

Put 1 ingot 1x2 horizontally on the backmost row directly to the left of the downward half-arch that is located next to the pull-back motor.

Put the curve tile with cut to the left horizontally to the left of the previous piece, pointy end protruding to the left, sloped edge at the back.

Repeat symmetrically at the front with the 2 remaining pieces.

Find 1 medium stone grey rounded plate 1x2.

Put it vertically centered to the left of the steering wheel.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 yellowish green trapeze plate 4x4 with cut-out,

and 1 yellowish green plate 2x4.

Turn the trapeze plate horizontally, narrow end to the left, cut out to the right, and mount it centered on the top surface so that its cut out encloses the previous piece and the steering wheel.

Put the plate 2x4 horizontally centered to the left of the previous piece.

Now, let's make a small sub-part.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 dark stone grey plate 1x3 with 2 clasps and 1 knob,

and 1 medium stone grey round plate 1x1.

Put the round plate on the knob of the plate 1x3.

Mount this part vertically centered to the left of the steering wheel. This means it will sit on the rounded plate 1x2 and the smooth part of the trapeze plate enclosing it.

Next, we will build 2 side panels.

Collect the following 4 pieces:

2 dark green plates 1x2,

and 2 yellowish green plates 1x2 with smooth roof tile 1x1 on top.

Put 1 plate with roof tile vertically on the table, roof tile to the front.

Put 1 plate 1x2 horizontally on the previous piece's knob, 1/2 overhanging to the left.

Repeat with the 2 remaining pieces.

Find another 2 yellowish green plates 1x2 with smooth roof tile 1x1 on top.

Put 1 vertically underneath the overhang of the previous piece, roof tile again to the front.

Repeat with the remaining piece on the second part.

Find 2 dark green two-stepped curve tiles 2x4.

Put 1 vertically on the 2 knobs of one side panel structure, 2/3 and curve overhanging towards the back. This will create an empty 1x2 slot at the bottom which we will fix in the next step.

Repeat with the remaining piece on the second side panel structure.

Find 2 yellowish green plates 1x2.

Put 1 horizontally underneath the previous piece in the 1x2 slot.

Repeat with the remaining piece on the other side panel.

Continue if you want to decorate these pieces with stickers now. If not, skip the next 3 sentences.

Find 2 rectangular stickers 2x4. (These are stickers number 1 and 3 and they are identical. On the sticker sheet, they are oriented horizontally and located directly next to each other in the right half of the sheet as opposed to the other 2x4 sticker that is more isolated. You can also ask a sighted person for help if you like.)

Put the stickers on the curved surfaces, matching their shapes.

The sticker prints are identical and show a bold, angular design in shades of green with a row of bright lime slashes pointing upward. At the base sits a golden circular emblem, like a power core or mechanical crest, surrounded by dark outlines. The pattern looks sleek and fast—perfect for the side panels of Lloyd’s race car.

Turn 1 side panel horizontally and flip it towards you so its smooth or stickered surface is facing you. Make sure the roof tile portion is on the left and the narrow end of the curve tile is on the right.

Mount it in that orientation on the 8 side knobs at the front side surface, making sure the rightmost edge does not connect to any knobs.

Repeat symmetrically at the back.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 dark green plate 1x2 with 1 knob,

and 1 dark green flat tile 2x4.

Put the plate 1x2 vertically centered to the left of the plate 1x3 with 2 clasps and round plate that is located in the center of the build.

Put the flat tile 2x4 horizontally to the left of the previous piece.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 rectangular sticker 2x4, (This is sticker number 2, the remaining sticker of this set. It is the sticker that is more isolated than the other two in the left half of the sticker sheet.)

and 1 dark green two-stepped curve tile 2x4.

Put the sticker on the surface of the curve tile, matching its shape.

This sticker is very similar to the ones on the race car’s side panels. It also shows a green background with lime green slashes and a golden tech emblem at the base. However, this version has extra details: a curved silver-and-blue outline around the emblem, plus black and gold mechanical shapes that make the whole design look more armored and complex. It adds more energy and power to the engine hood of the race car.

Mount the curve tile 2x4 horizontally centered on the leftmost edge of the vehicle structure, curve running towards the left.

Find 1 yellowish green one-stepped curve tile 1x2.

Put it horizontally on the 2 single knobs to the left of the steering wheel, curve to the left.

Find 4 dark stone grey inverted curve disks 2x2 with 4 knobs.

Before you mount them, carefully flip the structure upside down.

Try to identify the 2 frame bricks of the vehicle underbody as well as the pull-back mechanism structure. Put 2 inverted curve disks centered on the splice between the frame brick 4x6 and the frame brick 4x4.

Put the other 2 inverted curve disks centered on the splice between the frame brick 4x4 and the pull-back mechanism structure.

After mounting the 4 disks, you can flip the car right side up again.

The vehicle underbody with pull-back mechanism is finished! Well done! With this, we have finished building everything from bag number 1. Great job! We usually pack a few extra bricks and pieces in each bag, so if you still have some pieces left there is no need to worry that you missed something. If you like, you can take a break now and return to the instructions later by skipping to the section introducing bag number 2. If you want to continue building right away, simply move on to the next sentence.

Open bag number 2. You can choose to have the bricks sorted by color again if you like. This bag contains all bricks and pieces for the Dragonian Warrior Minifigure, the fire obstacles, and the race car body.

Next up, we will build the Dragonian Warrior Minifigure.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 bright red and black upper part of the body,

and 1 titanium metallic and bright red pair of legs.

Put the upper body on the legs. Make sure that the hands and toes are pointing in the same direction.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 titanium metallic shoulder armor with back plate,

and 1 bright red Minifigure head.

Put the shoulder armor with back plate around the neck. The plate with 2 knobs should be towards the back, pointing down.

Put the Minifigure head on the body.

Next up, we will build the Warrior's dragon skull helmet.

Collect the following 3 pieces:

2 black small horns with short shaft,

and 1 maroon red dragon skull helmet.

Insert the shafts of the horns into the 2 holes at the top of the hollow area. Make sure their tips are pointing up.

Put the helmet on the head.

Find 1 silver metallic wide-bladed sword with dents.

Snap it into the Minifigure's left hand, rounded blade towards the front.

The Dragonian Warrior Minifigure is finished! Well done! The Dragonian Warrior is a fierce red-skinned villain clad in jagged silver and black armor. His chest and legs are covered in layered metal plates with claw-like markings, giving him a brutal, battle-hardened look. He wears a spiked shoulder piece and a dark jaw-guard that wraps around his face like the mouth of a beast. His head is bright red with glowing orange eyes, sharp fangs, and a snarling expression. An alternate face shows a swirling mass of fire and fury. On his back, more armor plating is printed over the red torso, matching the dangerous, armored style. He carries a large jagged sword, ready to strike. What a frightful adversary. Lloyd better buckle up!

Now, we will build 2 fire obstacles.

Collect the following 4 pieces:

2 bright red curved disks 2x2 with 1 knob,

and 2 transparent bright orange flames with 5 tongues.

Put the curved disks next to each other on the table, knobs towards the top.

Insert the short shafts of the flame pieces into the hollow knobs.

These obstacles are a great challenge for Lloyd and his race car!

Now, we will continue building the race car.

Find 2 bright blue connector pegs 3m with asymmetric ring stopper.

Put the race car structure horizontally, pull-back motor on the right edge.

Insert the longer end of one connector from the front into the rightmost hole at the top edge of the pull-back motor, symmetrically protruding to the front and back.

Insert the longer end of the second connector from the front into the hole to the left of the previous piece, symmetrically protruding to the front and back.

Next, we will make the rear spoiler mounts.

Collect the following 4 pieces:

2 black technic beams 3m with offset cross hole,

and 2 bright red cross axles 2m with 2 grooves.

Put 1 beam horizontally on the table, round holes running from front to back, cross hole on the right and running from top to bottom.

Insert one cross axle from the top into the cross hole of the first beam, 1/2 protruding to the top.

Repeat with the 2 remaining pieces.

Mount 1 part in its building orientation on the 2 connector pegs from the previous piece that are sticking out towards the front. Use the 2 round holes of the technic beam to do so.

Repeat symmetrically at the back. If done correctly, the cross axles are both on the right edge and pointing to the top.

Now, we will build the rear spoiler wings.

Collect the following 4 pieces:

2 warm gold large weapon hooks with cross axle,

and 2 warm gold nose cones 1x1.

Put the wider ends of the 2 nose cones on the cross axles of the weapon hooks.

To mount the first rear spoiler, hold it flat in front of you. Make sure its nose cone is pointing to the right, the cross hole next to it is running from top to bottom, and the hook is first extending to the left and then makes a sharp bend towards the front right.

Put its cross hole on the cross axle of the front mount that we have installed earlier on the pull-back motor.

Repeat symmetrically at the back, hook making a sharp bend towards the back right.

Now, we will build the first underbody lightning blade.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 dark stone grey connector peg 3m with cross axle end,

and 1 medium stone grey T-shaped round bushing with cross axle pin.

Put the round bushing on the table so that its hole is running from left to right and the cross axle end is pointing to the back.

Insert the long end of the connector peg from the left into the round hole, cross axle end protruding to the left, connector protruding to the right.

Find 1 medium stone grey tube 2m with middle slot.

Put it from the right on the protruding connector.

Find 1 transparent bright green lightning blade 5x7 with cross bushing.

Hold the blade horizontally and flat in front of you so that its cross bushing is on the left and the blade is extending towards the front and right. Put its cross bushing on the cross axle that is pointing to the left. The connector-tube-structure and the blade should be level, meaning that the tube is at the back and the blade flat in front of it.

The underbody lightning blade is finished! Well done! To mount it, insert its back cross axle into the single cross hole that is accessible from the front in the left half of the vehicle between driver's cabin and engine hood. The tube structure will fit into the recess, and the blade should be extending towards the front and the right.

Now, we will build the second underbody lightning blade.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 medium stone grey T-shaped round bushing with cross axle pin,

and 1 dark stone grey connector peg 3m with cross axle end.

Put the T-shaped round bushing on the table so that its hole is running from left to right and the cross axle pin is pointing to the back.

Insert the connector peg from the right into the hole, cross axle protruding to the right, connector protruding to the left.

Find 1 medium stone grey tube 2m with middle slot.

Put it from the left on the protruding connector..

Find 1 transparent bright green lightning blade 5x7 with cross bushing.

Put it on the cross axle pin that is pointing to the right, making sure that the blade is flat in front of you, extending towards the front left.

Turn the vehicle around so that the pull-back motor is now on the left edge, and like before, mount the underbody lightning blade on the front cross hole between driver's cabin and engine hood.

Next, we will build the front bumper.

Collect the following 3 pieces:

2 black connector pegs 2m with middle ring,

and 1 yellowish green right body fairing 2x5 with 3 bottom holes. (This is a custom-cut smooth panel piece that also exists as a "left" type. If you put the panel horizontally in front of you, 2 round bottom holes towards the front, then the pointy tip should be towards the left and the third hole which is a cross hole should be on the right. If this does not add up, you have the left body fairing which we will only need a bit later.)

Put the body fairing on the table, 2 round holes towards the front, pointy tip to the left, cross hole to the right.

Insert the 2 connector pegs from the front into the 2 round holes, 1/2 protruding to the front.

Find 1 medium stone grey cross axle 5m.

Insert it from the right into the cross hole, 4/5 protruding to the right.

Next, we will make a sub-part of the bumper.

Collect the following 2 pieces:

1 yellowish green technic beam 2m with 1 round and 1 cross hole,

and 1 bright blue connector peg 3m with asymmetric ring stopper.

Put the technic beam vertically on the table, cross hole at the front.

Insert the short end of the connector peg from the right into the round hole at the back, 2/3 protruding to the right.

Find another yellowish green technic beam 2m with 1 round and 1 cross hole.

Turn it vertically, cross hole at the front, and slide its round hole coming from the right on the protruding connector peg.

Find another yellowish green technic beam 2m with 1 round and 1 cross hole.

Turn it vertically, cross hole at the front, and slide the round hole on the connector peg.

To mount this sub-part of the bumper, slide its cross hole tube at the front on the cross axle of the already built structure. About 1/5 of the cross axle should still protrude to the right.

Find 1 yellowish green left body fairing 2x5 with 3 bottom holes.

Turn it horizontally so that its round holes are at the front, pointy end to the right, cross hole to the left. Slide the cross hole on the remaining cross axle.

Push all the bumper elements firmly together.

Find 2 black connector pegs 2m with middle ring.

Insert them from the front into the 2 round holes of the left body fairing, 1/2 protruding to the front.

The front bumper is finished! Well done! Turn it vertically so that the 4 connector pegs are pointing to the right, and mount it on the left edge of the vehicle. This means that the connector pegs are inserted into the 2 frontmost and 2 backmost knobs of the technic brick 1x12.

Next, we will assemble the front bumper blades.

Collect the following 4 pieces:

2 bright blue connector pegs 2m with cross axle pin,

and 2 warm gold jagged blades 3x6 with cross hole.

Insert the cross axle pins into the cross holes of the 2 blades, connector portion sticking out.

Put 1 blade vertically and flat in front of you so that its connector peg is pointing to the back. Make sure the front tip of the blade is pointing to the right. Insert the connector from the front into the leftmost side hole of the structure below the engine hood.

Repeat symmetrically at the back. If done correctly, both blade tips are pointing to the right.

Now, let's make the rear axle.

Find 1 black cross axle 12m.

Insert it from the front into the bracket ring at the rightmost edge of the structure and push it through the entire vehicle side until it protrudes symmetrically to the front and back. You might have to wiggle the cross axle and the different components on the right edge a bit to push it through.

Find 2 medium stone grey cross hole bushings 1m.

Put 1 on the front end of the cross axle and the other one on the back end and push them in towards the vehicle body.

Now, we will assemble the 2 rear wheels.

Collect the following 4 pieces:

2 yellowish green wide rims with thick spokes and cross hole,

and 2 black thick rubber tires with low profile. (Do not confuse them with the 2 thinner tires. Those will be used later for the front wheels.)

Put the rims into the tires.

Before you mount them, really make sure that the cross axle is protruding symmetrically to the front and back because after the mounting wheels we will still need some cross axle on both sides to mount the wheel caps. Now, put the wheels on the 2 cross axle ends but make sure that the spokes are facing inwards and the slick side is outwards.

Find 2 black round disks 3x3 with cross hole.

Put them on the remaining cross axle bits. These are the wheel caps.

Find 1 black cross axle 12m.

Insert it from the front into the bracket ring in the left half of the vehicle. This ring with hole is located to the left of the lightning blades. Make sure it is protruding symmetrically to the front and back.

Find 2 medium stone grey cross hole bushings 1m.

Put them on the 2 cross axle ends at the front and back and push them all the way in to the vehicle body.

Now, we will build 2 front wheels.

Collect the following 4 pieces:

2 yellowish green wide rims with thick spokes and cross hole,

and 2 black thin rubber tires with low profile.

Put the rims into the tires.

Mount them on the cross axle, making sure that the spokes are facing inwards.

Find 2 black round disks 3x3 with cross hole.

Put them on the remaining cross axle protrusions as wheel caps.

The race car is almost finished! Find 2 warm gold katana swords 6m.

Snap their handles into the 2 clasps that are located to the left of the steering wheel. Make sure they are extending towards the left and the blades are oriented slightly inwards.

With this, Lloyd has his 2 signature weapons always at the ready!

You have finished building the entire set! Fantastic job, what an intricate build! Now it's time to let the race begin. Will Lloyd be able to race his way out of dangerous situations with his adversary, the Dragonian warrior? Put him behind the wheel and ready, set, go! It's up to you now!

Enjoy!